I've been talking about crochet a lot on the blog recently, probably because I'm involved in a CAL and that's kept crochet on the front of my mind. I will talk about other crafts in the future, but for now I'm hyper focused on crochet, so I figure I may as well take advantage while I can!
If you've been crocheting for a while, you've probably noticed that there's many types of crochet hook, but if you're new, you may not have tried enough brands to even know there are other options. I grew up using Susan Bates hooks (inline, non-ergonomic) and am still partial to them, probably due to my familiarity with them. Whatever hook you started with is likely your favorite hook, even if you can't articulate why. Or perhaps you struggled to manage hook and yarn and gave it up after a while, figuring it was too fiddly for you. Could it have been that you weren't using the right hook for you? Or maybe you're just curious about what's out there and would like to know more. Whatever brought you to this article, I hope there's something you learn from it!
Crochet Hook Anatomy
For this post, I will be comparing two hooks I have from two different brands that are the same size and should, in theory, be identical. However, there are various manufacturing differences that can make a big difference in how comfortable the hook feels in your hand, how easy it is to make stitches (either all stitches, or just certain ones), and how much you enjoy the project you're working on. Because my personal preferences lean this way, both hooks are made of aluminum, are standard (meaning, "not ergonomic"), and are not Tunisian or interchangable hooks. I will discuss those options and have images of what those look like below in another section, but first, let's take a look at our basic hooks:
As you can see, we'll be looking at two brands, Susan Bates and Boye. Both have been in the business for quite some time with Susan Bates being produced since the 1930s (though now a subsidiary of Spinrite) and Boye has been in production since 1917 (though today a subsidiary of Simplicity). The Susan Bates hook was purchased for me sometime in the 90s or early 2000s, and the Boye was bought sometime after 2015. Both are aluminum, and both are anodized and dyed to be color-coded for size. Obviously, the 2 brands use a different color coding system, and if my quick glance at Google is anything to go by, they have since switch to different color coding. You can see from the stamp that the Bates hook is one of the ones made after they stopped manufacturing in the US (couldn't find the exact date, but sometime after 1991, possibly as late as 1997) and while I have met people who swear the US-made hooks were better, having tried both, I actually really prefer the Mexican-manufactured version. I don't have any to hand for comparison, but the shape of the heads differ slightly, and I like the ones I learned on. Go figure!
Already you can see one difference between the brands; there's no regulations requiring hooks to be consistently sized, and if you're having trouble getting gauge on a pattern, this could be one reason why. The Susan Bates hook is labeled "US D 3" which measures 3.25 millimeters, but the "D/3" of the Boye hook measures 3.125 millimeters. It's not a huge difference, and for some people it may not create a noticeable difference at all, but if there's a fraction of a stitch difference, that can add up in something large like a sweater or a blanket and produce surprising results. This is why I prefer when patterns include the metric measurement alongside the letter/number size, because different brands or even the same brand in different countries; for example, there is a measurement commonly used in China that gets translated as "inch" but is closer to 1.5 imperial inches. The metric is standardized internationally in a way that no other measurement is, which can help clear up any doubt about what actual size the pattern is asking for.
Another difference between the two brands is the overall size, and the positioning of the thumb rest. Which of these arrangements (or one of the many other sizes and proportions) is best for you is a personal preference, so before going all in on a multi-size set, which can easily cost $30 on the low end and often quite a bit more, try out a few brands. You might find that the ones you started with aren't the ones best suited to your style of crochet. When I was learning to crochet (back in the previous century), I only had access to these two brands, and I had (and still have) a clear preference. The Boye hook is longer over all, with equal space before the thumb rest and behind it; the Bates hook is shorter overall, and with the thumb rest positioned much further forward on the hook proportionately than on the Boye. My preference is for the Bates as it fits better in my hand and I don't need the extra space in front of the thumb rest. You can also see that the shape of the hook itself is different between the two brands, and I'll be zooming in on both of them to compare in a bit. First, we need to discuss the names for the different parts of the hook so we can compare and contrast more easily.
Every crochet hook will contain these essential parts, as well as the portion of the hook behind the thumb rest, which is most often called the handle, but I have heard it called things like "the hand rest" as well, especially on hooks that have some kind of ergonomic adaptation.
This close-up really shows that there are substantial differences between the formation of the two hooks. The Susan Bates hooks perfected their shaping in 1944, terming it "in-line," and that is still the term used today for this type of head and throat shaping. I've seen it claimed that they patented it, but I haven't been able to find any evidence of that; the patent would have expired by now in any case. Boye, however, definitely did patent their shaping, which they called "tapering" in 1949, and this shaping is still called that today, though this patent has since expired. Because of this, other crochet hook manufacturers are free to use either shaping, should they wish to, and most use one or the other. Anecdotally, it seems like tapered heads have won the day, though this could be regional.
Inline Vs Tapered
These close up images make it clear that on the business end, the profile of the Bates hook is much flatter overall than the Boye hook. Which profile makes it easier to catch and manipulate the yarn is a matter of personal preference, of course, but it partially depends on the methods being employed, as well. Stitches requiring multiple wraps will be easier to keep an even tension on the Bates hook, because the diameter of the hook does not reduce as drastically; on the Boye hook, it is easy to over-tighten the loops waiting to be worked, causing difficulty in completing the stitch. On the other hand, tight stitches are easier to get into with a tapered hook like Boye, because the narrower diameter is easier to slide between tight strands than the relatively wide Bates hook.
The backs of the hooks show significant difference as well. You can see on the in-line hook, the width of the hook is more or less constant; the chunk taken out on the front does impact the diameter of the hook, but markedly less than on a tapered hook. Anecdotally, I have heard from multiple people and experienced it myself that getting an even tension is easier on an in-line hook because the sizing portion of the hook is largely uniform. On a tapered hook making sure to size the yarn on the barrel is critical to avoid over tightening the stitches, while on an in-line hook, sizing the yarn on the throat is undesirable, but not disastrous.
One thing both of these hooks have in common, however, is that they lack any kind of ergonomic adaptation at all, aside from the thumb rest, though at this point, that is considered standard, too. For many people, the narrow diameter of the hook can cause pain or be ungrippable for a variety of reasons. In the not so distant past, this led to people being unable to pursue the craft, but luckily the last 30-40 years have seen an explosion of different solutions to this issue, with different adaptations intended to solve different problems.
Ergonomic or Not?
A hook is not ergonomic if the diameter of the hook is uniform, or nearly so. Some steel hooks meant for working very fine thread, even down to sewing thread weight, will taper up to a "normal" diameter past the thumb rest, but for most of the hooks in more common use today, the diameter of the barrel, thumb rest, and beyond will be static. These tend to be the most economic; standard hooks range in price from about $2-$4 each, depending on material, brand, and location. Some larger hooks may be proportionately more expensive, but overall, standard hooks are the cheapest and most economically accessible of all the types of crochet hook. If you have no issues using them, they tend to be easy to find, available in most big box stores, whether craft oriented or not, and are also generally available at smaller craft-focused stores as well, such as yarn stores, quilting stores, etc. Many locations around the world also have standard crochet hooks available at discount stores, like variety stores (i.e. dollar stores/100 Yen shops/pound shops/pesorama/etc), thrift shops, and other places where you might not initially think they'd be available. They're a great entryway into the craft, and often more than suitable for children's use as well as adult's.
But what if they don't work for you? If they cause pain, are hard to hold, or otherwise are troublesome in some way, there are other options. Because of the different reasons behind needing or desiring an ergonomic hook, the forms they can take vary, and some will be better suited than others to an individual's needs. I wish I had less expensive advice than "try various hooks until one feels right" but unfortunately, aside from knowing yourself, that really is the only answer at this time. If you have a good physical- or occupational therapist, they might be able to recommend options based on their experience, but to my knowledge there are no official recommendations for specific diagnosis or anything like that.
Beware of cheaper tools or sets sold on Amazon or other aggregate marketplaces like Temu or AliExpress; any prices that seem too good to be true likely are. On these sites counterfeits abound, and the lower price usually coincides with lower quality that can make the tools unusable. I have personally heard of or experienced issues like sharp metal burrs present on on the hook that cut yarn and skin alike; some chemical used in the manufacturing causing rashes; non-anodized metal that rusts quickly due to moisture in the air; plastics made poorly leading them to be brittle and/or have pitting, chipping, burrs, or flashing; rubberized or silicone handles that were not cured right, leading to melting, sweating, oozing, or other undesirable texture changes. On occasion, these tools can be a great deal, but it's a gamble. Even if the item you receive isn't damaged or harmful, in many cases the lower quality of the tool leads to it wearing out faster than a known and trusted brand, needing replacing faster and in the end, not really saving you money at all. As always on the internet, buyer beware.
So, if you know what to look out for, but aren't too sure what you might want, what are the options?
Add-On Handles
If you already have a set of standard hooks, and want to try adapting them, there are multiple products on the market to do so.
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| Susan Bates Cushion Grips. Photo credit Susan Bates, via Coats and Clark |
In general, sponge or other fabric-coated grips are best if you'd like to transfer grips from one hook to another. Rubber or silicone grips are difficult to impossible to remove once placed on a hook, so you would need to purchase one for each hook you plan to use. Sponge or fabric-coated silicone tend to release their grip on the hook more easily, should you wish to purchase a limited number and use them on multiple hooks. Pricing ranges from $2-$15 depending on size, quality, and materials. Some people also use ace bandages or similar materials, polymer clay, mix-at-home silicones or resins to build their own, should these pre-made styles be unavailable, out of price range, or unsuitable for one or another reason.
Rubber Handles
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| Clover Amour hooks with rubber handles. Photo credit Clover USA |
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| Prym branded hooks with rubber handles. Note the lack of thumb rest & different color coding system as compared to the Clover hooks. Photo credit to Prym Consumer USA |
Another option is rubber handled hooks. Clover Amour has rubber on the thumb rest, but some other brands can leave the thumb rest un-rubberized or leave out the thumb rest entirely for a fully round handle. Typically, the hook above the handle will be metal, usually aluminum to keep weight down, but plastic, wood, and alternative materials like carbon fiber or precious metals have been available in different times and places. These are usually preferred by people who have difficulty with grip, as the rubber is easier to hold without slipping when the hook is made of a slick material like metal or polished wood, and the rubber adds a certain amount of cushioning. Rubberized handles are typically available sold as both individual hooks or in sets. Often brands will use different colors in the handle as a marker of size, though others prefer a sleeker look with all handles being the same color and the size information being stamped or embossed somewhere on the hook instead. Individual hooks range in price from about $4 to about $12, though location and quality will have an impact on that.
Partially Rubberized Handle
To my knowledge, only Prym is offering this style of hook, but those who love them swear by them.
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Photo credit to Prym Consumer USA
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The all-plastic construction makes them lighter weight than metal hooks with a rubber handle, and those who love these hooks say that the partial rubberization helps them grip the hook better than if it was solely plastic or solely rubber. These hooks are between $6 and $12 depending on size and location, making them a bit pricey compared to other brands, but from what I have heard, the quality is worth it.
Unusually Shaped Handle
Some brands offer crochet hooks with handles of unusual shape. Depending on the user, these shapes can be better for the health of the hands, wrists, and arms.
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| Furls brand hooks in their Blush colorway; Photo credit Furls Fiber Arts |
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| Set of Addi Swings crochet hooks; Photo credit Herrschners |
These are just two of the most common shapes and brands available, and their uniqueness tends to raise the price as well. Hooks in this category are often above $20, though you can sometimes find deals in the $15-$20 range. This category also includes pre-fixed handles like the ones made of polymer clay you can find on Etsy or the silicone add-on handles you can buy on Etsy or from personal websites. Some of these are better quality than others and since they are personal brands, there is no testing or guarantee of what "ergonomic" means. If you find a brand that you like, then more power to you, but a lot of these "off" brands are largely fueled by social media hype, rather than having a solid product. As previously stated, when purchasing sight unseen on the internet, buyer beware.
Now that we've discussed the impacts of shapes of the hooks, what about the material the hook is made of?
Plastic Vs Wood vs Metal
The three predominant types of materials for crochet hooks are wood, metal, and plastic, and all have their proponents. Metal is the more traditional material, though before the industrial revolution wood, ivory, and bone were all more prevalent. The shape of the tool itself differed greatly throughout history as well, but that's a fascinating diversion for another post. For now, I'll be talking about the 3 most common modern materials.
Plastic
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| Boye Jumbo Plastic hooks; photo credit Herrschners |
Plastic hooks come in many varieties, and are often the beginner's intro the craft. Plastic hooks are typically cheaper than any other material, and are often fairly attractive in and of themselves.
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| Susan Bates Crystallites; photo credit Michaels.com |
These are very easy to find in sets for a low price, typically below $20 for a full set or even below $10 for a set of 5 or so sizes. Depending on the size of the hook, single packages range from $1-5. It is very difficult to find plastic hooks in sizes below G, and I have personally not seen plastic hooks below D. This is because plastic at that level of thinness is very brittle, and would snap easily. However, if you love working with chunky and roving style yarns, plastic hooks are probably your jam. They're the lightest weight for the size, glide smoothly when maintained well, and the low conductivity of the plastic means they rarely feel hot or cold to the touch depending on room temperature. If you find you have sweaty hands after working for a while or the thought of picking up a cold hook on a chilly winter's day sounds like a nightmare, plastic hooks might be what you're looking for.
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| Hobbii Glitter hooks; photo credit hobbii.com |
The main drawback of these hooks is that they tend to be brittle, especially as they age. Falling on a hard floor can cause chips, some of which may be sharp. Thinner hooks may be prone to snapping, especially around the head and throat; larger hooks tend to be thick enough to avoid this problem. However, under typical use, these tend not to be issues the crafter will experience often, and they can last a very long time, decades in many cases. Additionally, if you crochet tightly and use synthetic yarns like acrylic or nylon, these needles can produce a squeaking sound as you work which many people find unpleasant. Certain synthetic fibers, typically ones made of the same kind of plastic as the hook, also tend to drag more and cause static as you work, though the extent to which this is a problem depends partially on temperature, ambient humidity, and personal yarn management style. For some people, especially those who typically work with natural fibers, this is not much of an issue, and for others, it's a deal breaker. Whichever it is for you, of course, is personal preference.
Wood
For the sake of this post, I am considering bamboo (both press board composite and the much rarer solid bamboo) to be equivalent to solid or laminated traditional woods like beech, oak, and pine. In my personal experience, they wear the same and have nearly identical properties, so while bamboo is technically a grass, it performs very similarly to more traditional wood sources.
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| Clover brand bamboo hook; photo credit Michaels.com |
If you want a wood feel, but prefer a lighter tool, bamboo is a great option. Bamboo is usually lighter than traditional woods for the size, and are decently affordable, too, at around $2-5 per hook.
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| Sunstruck Interchangable crochet hook; photo credit crochet.com |
The main down side to bamboo and wooden hooks is that if it is not well laminated, it can split along the join lines under stress; even solid wood or bamboo can break in this way if the orientation of the natural fibers is in line with the stress being put on it. Generally, this is not a likely circumstance, because the hooks are made with the natural fibers or lamination lines running the vertical length of the hook, and it is unlikely that the hook will be receiving stress in the right directions to split it, but being loose in a bag or dropped on a hard floor at just the right angle can cause them to split. Even when well polished, they also don't tolerate being wet for long periods of time, which can soften the wood and lead to warping and eventually rotting. If you live somewhere quite humid and the hook(s) are stored somewhere not climate controlled, you may find that they warp over time and begin to mold. However, most people do not keep their crochet tools in a damp shed, so this is rarely an issue.
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| Caspian Crochet hook; photo credit crochet.com |
Wood also tends to have a warm feel in the hand, which people who are sensitive to cold appreciate. They also tend to be somewhat less slick than plastic tools (though certain plastics can be grippier than even wood) and much less slick than metal tools, which can be a positive if you struggle with slicker tools, especially with slick fibers like silk and rayon. Another positive is that if you prefer a natural look to the wood, you have plenty of options, but there are fun dyed options like the Caspian hook pictures above. Also, some brands offer exotic woods and/or beautiful or otherwise interesting finials at the bottom of the hook, like the one pictured below from Revolution Fibers. Expect to pay more for these artistic flourishes, however, typically $15 or more per hook.
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| Artisan Rosewood hook; photo credit RevolutionFibers.com |
As with plastic hooks, the smaller sizes tend to be brittle, so hooks under G are rarely offered, and I have never seen a wooden hook in a size smaller than E. Also, unlike plastic hooks, the range of sizes offered is also usually contracted on the large size as well, as heavier wood can be difficult to work with and somewhat cost prohibitive, too.
Metal
While historically metal crochet hooks were either iron or steel, these days, the predominant metal for crochet hooks is aluminum, except for the smallest of hooks, for use with threads, which are are still steel to this day. Nickel alloys are also becoming somewhat popular as well. Aluminum hooks are the lightest for size, and larger sizes are sometimes made hollow to cut down on weight as well. These hooks tend to be the toughest and their slickness is perfect for using with yarns that are difficult or "sticky" like brushed mohair. The first section of this post was all about standard metal hooks, so I won't linger too long on them, but they're the first hooks I received in childhood and are the ones I'm still using today for a reason!
What about Tunisian Crochet?
If you're a fan of Tunisian crochet, or think you might become one, an additional question to consider is which type(s) of Tunisian hooks work best for you. Which type of hook works best for you might be the same in all circumstances, or might depend on the project.
Straight needles
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| Chiaogoo Straight Tunisian hook; photo credit PurlSoho |
These resemble modified knitting needles, and historically they often were. For smaller pieces, or larger pieces worked in blocks, straight needles do the job well, though for larger projects, like with straight knitting needles, the weight of the project hanging from it makes the hook tiring to hold and makes tension more difficult to maintain, especially with chunkier yarns. However, their simplicity is appealing and it offers a form that visually resembles a standard crochet hook well, which is also appealing to people. These are easiest to find in wood or bamboo, though I have also been able to find them in metal and rarely in plastic. Of the 3 options, straights are the hardest to find in any material and at any price point. Straight hooks can also be limiting, as they can only be used for flat worked items (items that you work back and forth). If you plan to work Tunisian crochet in the round, you'll need to look at one of the following options. Straight Tunisian hooks do tend to be affordable, in the $3-6 per hook range, though.
Double-Ended Tunisian Hooks
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Bamboo double-ended crochet hook; photo credit crochet.com
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This is the traditional tool for working Tunisian crochet in the round, and for many people, what ain't broke ain't worth fixing. Similarly priced to straights, they are quite affordable, and easily available in bamboo, metal and wood. I was unable to find any in plastic, but they may be available outside of my area, I don't know. They require a slightly different technique to working flat, in that you work a partial round at a time, rather than a full round as you typically would working flat, though how long that partial round can be is dictated by how long the hook is. Expect to pay more for longer hooks, but there is no need to purchase them if you are comfortable working more partial passes; many beautiful things have been created with double ended hooks that are no bigger than a standard hook.
Interchangeable Hooks
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| Interchangeable hook in the colorway Radiant; photo credit crochet.com |
These are by far the most popular Tunisian hook option these days, and it's not hard to see why. They are the most versatile of hooks, able to be used like a standard hook for non-Tunisian projects and for either flat work or full-length round work when the appropriate cords are attached. Multiple makers offer these for a wide range of prices, from an affordable $5-10 per hook (excluding cables and related accessories) all the way to $20+ for a single hook from high end artisans. An additional benefit of the cable is that for very long or wide projects, the weight of the project does not hang solely from the hook; the cables are flexible, and allow the weight of the project to be held up by your lap, chair arms, or table.
Which is best for me?
Of course, this is a personal question which has no general answer, but there's several things you can consider when shopping for a new crochet hook, especially if you're new to the craft:
- Can I try before I buy? Some local yarn shops will let you try out a hook before purchase, especially if you're buying some yarn at the same time, but definitely do not take anything out of the packaging (hook or yarn) without asking, and be understanding if they say no. It can be difficult to get things back in the packaging sometimes, and if you decide not to buy it, they may be stuck with a now un-sellable product. If the local yarn shop is not possible for try outs for one reason or another, try looking for crochet groups and guilds in your area. They often meet at libraries, community centers, or other semi-public areas like coffee shops. If you introduce yourself and say you want to get into the craft people tend to be very supportive and this group would be a good resource in any event, in most cases. They would likely also have good advice on where to find hooks and yarn economically, and would likely allow you to try out some of their tools.
- What fibers do I like using most? If you're mostly someone who uses acrylic to make afghans, a plastic hook might not be for you, but if you love using chunky yarn they might be perfect. If you love fuzzy brushed mohair sweaters, a metal hook might be your jam, but maybe not if you love working with bamboo rayon to make lacy, summery tops. If you love making crochet doilies from thread weight cotton, steel hooks are probably your only option, so the question there is whether you need a standard or ergonomic hook rather than what material to buy. How you intend to use a tool is just as important to selection as anything else.
- What is available to me? Whether or not your ideal tool is, for example, able to imported, has a prohibitive tax on it, is locally available vs needing to pay shipping costs, is part of a set or available singly, is in a price range that matches your budget, etc. is as important to consider as any other. There are many beautiful artisanal tools available, especially through places like Etsy, but if they aren't available to you for one reason or another, then it doesn't matter how enticing they may be,
- What qualities appeal to me? Do you love the look feel of natural wood? Do you want something shiny or glittery? Does the weight of the tool matter to you? Do you want a matching set, a color coded set, or an eclectic mix of hooks in your collection? Are you interested in interchangeable hooks and do you feel comfortable using them as standard hooks with the cord unattached?
- What do I need for comfort and safety? Do you have any conditions or preferences that dictate needs? Does the size of your hand make longer or shorter hooks more comfortable? What about weight, is something light going to be hard to feel in your hand, or would too much heft tire your hands quickly? Is it harder to hold things with a smaller diameter or a larger one? Do you need a material with a softer grip to prevent injury, or would a harder item be less taxing to hold? Do you have a tic or tremor that means a slick material might make you lose stitches or insert the hook in the wrong place and so you'd benefit from wood or a matte plastic? Or maybe you don't have a ton of hand and arm strength and a slicker hook will help you make more stitches with the time you have for crafting? Does your need for a specific type of ergonomic hook mean that other preferences about material, length, and head type are kind of moot? In my opinion, this is the most important question to consider when shopping for a hook, and is the one you should start with, in most cases.
Conclusion
I hope this (much lengthier than I set out to write!) post will help you make informed decisions about hook purchases going forward. Was there anything I left out? Is there something I should know about? Let me know in the comments or reach out to me by email and I'll be more than happy to update the post. Happy crafting!
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